How to measure crank length. Copyright © 2017 Damon Sprague
This method is for micro,mini and JR and expert BMX racers under 5 foot tall (152cm)
My method tells you exactly how to get the inner leg measurement to plug into our formula.
Have child stand close to, but not touching wall, shoes on, shoulder width apart. Use a clipboard or framing square if you have one. Place short edge flat against wall with long edge in crotch high as possible till you can't go any higher. Let me clarify, we are trying to get the longest measurement possible. Measure from floor to top edge of clipboard including fractions with tape measure. Convert fractions of an inch to decimals for equation, top number divided by bottom i.e 3/8 = .375. Example, 20.25 for a 20 1/4) inseam. Then divide total number by .173 for crank length in mm. So 20.375 divided by .173 = 117mm. You can add up to 5mm if your rider is a beginer and you are trying to save money. Plan on adding 2.5mm to the result for intermediate and expert riders. Don't count on feedback from young riders, careful observance to determine proper fit of all the components will result in safer, faster, better riding, and more fun so scrutinize the fit. If you try and mix my measurement method with other calculators you will NOT get solid results- those are not designed for my inner leg measurement. You can also find a decent chart at BMX ultra though again do not try to plug our inner leg measurement into bmx Ultra and expect good results. DO NOT use Dans- way way outdated.
A discussion about Q factor. Copyright © 2017 Damon Sprague
For little riders, you do want your cranks as tight as you can get them. Even if you have to shave the inside of the crank a little for clearance. It is worth it. These little riders have an extremely limited power potential and you want to maximize it. Levering the bike side to side rather than pushing it forward is wasted power and not helping balance so bringing everything into the center as much as possible is a big deal. The width of the cranks is termed Q factor and tighter is better. A width of 130mm outside to outside on the crank arm is very good, smaller the rider the more important this is obviously as they will have narrower hips and shorter inseam causing them to look bowlegged on the bike. This is what we are trying to minimize. We used to warn against cranks that bow outward but having measured the Q on almost all the brands we realized that most cranks on the market have a wide Q factor regardless of the the shape of the arm. Helium, Rennen, VSR and bombshell rockets are the tighter of the straight arm cranks. Two piece cranks will be heavier and wider and I don't recommend them for the little guys, save that stuff for 80 pound and up riders and shop carefully. I always try and get cranks as tight as possible no matter what frame the're on. It's about efficient power transfer and improving fit and balance.
For frames I'd recommend Ssquared, Redman, Speedco carbon or Staats at this point not because they are lighter but due to rear end design allow for you to run the tightest BB you can get. Helium Racing currently sells Staats, Ssquared,Speedco and others. I've seen 52t front chaining with a 103mm BB with no interference on certain frames. Some other frames with wider chainstays will not allow certain BB/crank combos without a gear rubbing or crank hitting the chain stay. Redline/GT and other frames with wider chainstays require a longer spindle to clear longer cranks. Sometimes you can get by with a short BBs on these frames if you are using 120 or shorter cranks.
Watch for long pedal spindles as they increase the Stance (distance between feet on pedals) Helium Racing offers what we consider to be the best BMX pedals in the sport for little riders and are worth considering. Customers are reporting 2 -4 seconds faster from tightening up the Q factor. In fact we find that for a 5 and under rider every 8-10mm tighter results in one second faster on the track.
If I was choosing between a tighter Q factor or a few grams lighter I would pick the tighter Q factor parts. It's simply more important than weight and shown to decrease lap times. We sell the lightest and the tightest cranks, bottom brackets and pedals available. Use all three together for a trifecta of speed.
Immediately he was faster out of the gate..
Just from changing the one part he was 2 seconds faster on his lap times!
My son is 4-5 bike lengths faster now just from that one change.
Showing how easy it really is to install the Game Changer tires
Copyright © 2017 Damon Sprague
Installation procedure for Helium Titanium and Aluminum BBs including torque spec for aluminum bolts.
Start by applying a little grease to the threads of the drive and non-drive cups (non-drive has the removeable lockring) Install drive side first remembering this has left hand threads and tightens to the left. Standard shimano BB tool required. Make sure to tighten this cup if it loosens cup make cause cranks to stop and rider may fall suddenly. Insert spindle and start the threads on the non-drive cup. The lock ring should be removed and set aside for the moment. Using your hand only to turn the tool at this time until the cup is bottomed on the bearing. Do not tighten any further once bottomed. A very light touch is all that is needed here. Check the spindle movement with your free hand to determine bottoming point as you want the spindle to turn without resistance and without side loading the ceramic bearings. (side loading will result in shortened bearing life and less free spinning BB) A little extra care spent during the install will give you great results and a longer lasting, more satisfying product so take an extra minute to do this right. When the cup is bottomed and no added resistance is felt install the non- drive side lock ring. Tighten with a cog wrench or BB lockring tool. The hinged version works very well. You can attach a wrench to the shimano BB tool at this point to hold the non-drive cup while tightening the lockring to ensure the cup doesn't tighten while lockring is being secured. Once BB is properly installed and spinning freely it's time to install the cranks.
Tighten crank arms using 8mm steel or Titanium crank bolts with greased threads (anti-seize if using titanium bolts or spindle). Never use aluminum bolts to install cranks. These should be checked periodically and properly torqued with a torque wrench. Be careful not to over-tighten. 23Nm for steel or Ti bolts in Titanium spindle. 18 Nm when using an aluminum spindle or aluminum bolts. Never use grease on the square tapers of the spindle or crank you want the cranks to stay tight not loosen. All bolts going into the Titanium spindle should have an anti-seize compound applied to the threads to avoid the bolts seizing from galvanic corrosion. (corrosion that occurs from two dissimilar metals being held together) You will want to remove these bolts someday and the anti-seize compound ensures that it is a painless process. Finishline brand Ti anti-seize is available in small sizes $3-4 at most bike shops and online at amazon etc. It is basically small copper particles suspended in grease.